Use of Vegetable dyes for
design development & Eco friendly approach
Article by : Rajesh Sharma
Since the beginning of human
civilization vegetable had been essential part of our daily life. Vegetables
have been used for different purpose in food, beauty products, medicine and
dyeing textiles. Nature has provided us abundance of raw materials for the
different purpose.
Dyes derived from natural materials
such as plant leaves, roots, bark, insect secretions, and minerals were the
only dyes available to mankind for the coloring of textiles until the discovery
of the first synthetic dye in 1856. Rapid research strides in synthetic
chemistry supported by the industrialization of textile production not only led
to the development of synthetic alternatives to popular natural dyes but also
to a number of synthetic dyes in various hues and colors that gradually pushed
the natural dyes into oblivion. However, environmental issues in the production
and application of synthetic dyes once again revived consumer interest in
natural dyes during the last decades of the twentieth century. Textiles colored
with natural dyes are preferred by environmentally conscious consumers and
today there is a niche market for such textiles
Natural dyes have been used since
ancient times for coloring and printing fabrics. Vegetables and herbs are among
them, used widely for dyeing and printing the textiles. Different types of
fruits, vegetable, roots and herbs are used for dyeing and printing of
textiles. In India it has been practiced for centuries and demand for such
textiles is worldwide.
Herbal products are biodegradable and
not harmful to ecology. To save the environment “mother earth” we must practice
more and more use of herbal and vegetable products. In this movement of saving
environment, the use of vegetable dyes is one step in this direction.
Natural dyes rather than chemical
dyes are used, with several soaking, drying and dyeing cycles. This requires a
ready source of water. Plants are boiled up to produce the natural dyes. Indigo
produces the blue dye used, and Alizarin (red) comes from the root of the
Indian Madder tree. Mordants such as wood ash or stale urine were traditionally
used to fix the colour.
Source of
natural dyes – Plants
- Catechu or cutch tree (brown)
- Gamboge tree resin (dark mustard yellow)
- Himalayan Rubhada root (yellow)
- Indigofera plant (blue)
- Kamala tree (red)
- Larkspur plant (yellow)
- Madder root (red, pink, orange)
- Myrabolan fruit (yellow, green, black)
- Pomegranate peel (yellow)
- Weld herb (yellow)
- Tea
- Turmeric
Organisation/Units
producing natural dyed and printed textiles in India & Abroad:
ANOKHI
Anokhi's roots lie in Jaipur, a city whose founders were enlightened patrons of the arts and crafts. Anokhi foucuses on the hand block which is carved out of wood and is the simplest of printing devices. Dyeing with vegetable colours is the oldest of colouring techniques. As pioneers of hand block printing for the export market, Anokhi has built on these for the last thirty years. It constantly seeks to create an environment in which traditional textiles have their place and value and to build a symbiotic relationship between the market and the design product - between skill and tradition.
Anokhi's roots lie in Jaipur, a city whose founders were enlightened patrons of the arts and crafts. Anokhi foucuses on the hand block which is carved out of wood and is the simplest of printing devices. Dyeing with vegetable colours is the oldest of colouring techniques. As pioneers of hand block printing for the export market, Anokhi has built on these for the last thirty years. It constantly seeks to create an environment in which traditional textiles have their place and value and to build a symbiotic relationship between the market and the design product - between skill and tradition.
Avani
A community based organisation working with creation of livelihood opportunities in rural villages of Kumaon Himalayas in Uttaranchal. We work with spinning, weaving and natural dyeing of natural fibres like silk, wool and linen. We are working with about 55 weavers and 500 spinners in 41 villages and hamlets in Kumaon, Uttaranchal. We are also using appropriate technology for processing of textiles. Solar water heaters for pre heating of water for natural dyes, development of models of solar powered spinning wheels. All the water used in natural dyeing is recycled for irrigation. All the products we make are hand woven and naturally dyed. The range of products includes: tweed jackets, carpets, shawls, mufflers, blankets, bedcovers and durries. Please email us if you are interested in purchase.
Asia - Uzbekistan
A community based organisation working with creation of livelihood opportunities in rural villages of Kumaon Himalayas in Uttaranchal. We work with spinning, weaving and natural dyeing of natural fibres like silk, wool and linen. We are working with about 55 weavers and 500 spinners in 41 villages and hamlets in Kumaon, Uttaranchal. We are also using appropriate technology for processing of textiles. Solar water heaters for pre heating of water for natural dyes, development of models of solar powered spinning wheels. All the water used in natural dyeing is recycled for irrigation. All the products we make are hand woven and naturally dyed. The range of products includes: tweed jackets, carpets, shawls, mufflers, blankets, bedcovers and durries. Please email us if you are interested in purchase.
Asia - Uzbekistan
Zarina F. Kenjaeva - Producer of Silk Vegetable Dyed,
Hand Knotted Rug & Suzane.
Zarina
F. Kenjaeva, master of hand embroidery & natural dyes. We also weave
carpets by order - Our shop in madrasa Nodir Devon Begi.
Zarina shows naturally dyed carpets recently displayed at the Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico USA
Zarina shows naturally dyed carpets recently displayed at the Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico USA
Dream Bird
Studio
Our baby slings, made from sumptuous
natural fibers, and our naturally-dyed playsilks and adornment scarves come in
a wide range of gorgeous colors from earth-based dyes. These living dyes from
leaves, roots and even insects are a connection to our ancestors, and their
beautiful colors resonate deeply. Iris Sullivan Daire.
Centinela
Traditional Arts
A tapestry gallery located in
Chimayo, New Mexico, specializing in handwoven wool products using natural
dyes, custom-dyed yarns, handspun yarns, and the traditional Chimayo/Rio Grande
weaving styles. The weaving gallery is run by Irvin and Lisa Trujillo, who are
award-winning weavers whose work has been shown in, and collected by, museums
across the United States, including the Smithsonian.
Edric Ong -
Eco-Textiles & Crafts
Cottons, Silks, Ikats, Natural Dyes,
Woodblock, handprinted scarfs, stoles & wraps. Edric Ong , President of
Society Atelier Sarawak, designs and produces traditional textiles using
natural dyes from engkudu, roots, sebangki bark, berries, fruit peels, and
natural indigo. Traditional weavers of Sungai Kain in the interior of Borneo
continue the tradition of Iban pau Kumbu in cotton Ikat to weave his designs.
Nature has given us abundance of
resources for our making lifestyle in a better and purposeful way and making
our environment more clean and healthy. With an advancement of technology we
must find out new techniques for the development of textile and products with
the use of natural dyes and minimising the use of chemical and inorganic
materials. This approach will shorten the gap between us and nature.
References:
www.naturadyes.org
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