Globalization of Business Operations –
Range Development for Denmark (Footwear)
Ashish Chandra
Faculty Member, Footwear Department, FDDI, Raebareli
ABSTRACT
The altitude of
participation of firms in international process can be specified by different
types of foreign market entry modes. Import and export entry modes are the conventional
form of worldwide activities of firms.
As the business
environment has increased in uncertainty and complexity, firms must immediately
identify the significant changes and respond to them rapidly to continue to
exist in the industry. In the present time Customer Relationship Management
(CRM) has also became a big marketing strategy for international business. It
is gaining drive with the increase of consumerism at international level. To
meet the competition globally, we can enter into the country by proper fashion
forecasting and appropriate range development in specific fashion categories.
Like footwears, handbags, belts wallets etc. This also includes Hardlines &
Softlines.
Range-building in the footwear industry is the seasonal
exercise of putting together the sales collection for the coming selling
season. The range building starts with gathering the necessary information for
fashion aspects such as the total fashion look, colors, textures, material
types and what are the basic and special type of footwear expected to be in
vogue in the coming season. It also covers the evaluation and interpretation of
this information and preparation of a fashion and a technical brief for the own
company taking into consideration the company market niche and its technical
and commercial capabilities.
1. Introduction
The basic
information needed for the range-building process include the following:
a) Fashion colors
textiles
b) Fashion colors
leather
c) Material
types, structures, textures, softness and touch
c) General
fashion magazines and specialized shoe magazines and reports
d) General
fashion reports
e) Information
from fashion and trade shows
f) Information
through consultants, suppliers and trend reports
After
evaluating the basic information, the person responsible for the range-building
will have to make an evaluation of the material obtained and prepare a
systematic fashion and technical brief or a guide line for starting the
range-building activities. This should include the selection of the following:
a. Lasts
b. Components
c. Basic upper
styling trends
d. Upper
materials and main colour trend
e. Number of
new styles needed
f. Old styles
to be modified
g. Target dates
for the first presentation of the range
It is important
that the range-builder prepares a detailed brief for the fashion and technical
aspects for the coming range and there by provides the designers and pattern
maker/shoe engineer the framework and guidelines on how the coming sales range
will be expected to appear.
Shoe
manufacturing is a complicated commercial undertaking and the products, even if
manufactured as high fashion items, have to fit into a certain price bracket
and are targeted to selected groups of consumers. Therefore the shoe designer
needs clear directives and guidance from the marketing/sales director and/or
range-builder in order to know what types of footwear are expected to be made
by the factory for the season.
2. Role of Range Builder
In companies of
a certain size, a special vacancy of range-builder is needed. Hís/Hers job is
to translate and complement the marketing department directives and carry out
detailed research on new materials, new lasts and components and to liaise
between the aesthetic/creative design on the one hand and pattern making, shoe
engineering and technical management.
In this way,
there is assurance that the range-building can proceed along clear lines and
that the team knows what each person has to do in order to carry out the task
for the common goal, namely, the creation of a range which will:
a. Meet the
market demand
b. Be easily
producible within the company capabilities
c. Create revenue
for the company
A creative
designer of footwear and other leather articles gets his/her inspiration from
the general fashion magazines, trend reports, range-building directives, visits
to fashion and trade shows. He then interprets the fashion look in his mind to
suitable types, styles, colour and material combinations which fit to the
prevailing trend.
A copy design
is simply copy ing shoe patterns from special footwear magazines, competitor’s
sales range, photos or sketches taken from shoe displays or trade fairs etc.
Unfortunately it is hardly possible to obtain design protection for a shoe
design except in cases where something very special is incorporated in the
styling. This is the reason why the most successful shoe factories have trademarks
registered and such trade mark may be incorporated as a standard part of the company
product range. An example of this is the three stripes of ADIDAS or embossing
or otherwise presenting a registered logo as part of the design such as
TIMBERLAND, ECCO, BATA, RALLY, CLARKS etc. However, even such trademarks arc
copied and these shoes arc sold especially in several Far Eastern countries.
This, however, is not copy design but outright piracy.
3. Segmentation
Fashion is divided
into several different segments. Consequently, a producer of footwear has to
define into which segments his products are to be designed and marketed. In
addition, all people have several roles in their daily life. A fashionable lady
can have roles as a mother, secretary, sports lady, party hostess, etc. All
these different roles require different types of wardrobe including different
designs of footwear.
Analyze the
fashion
Analyzing the
fashion will be two-fold:
a. The international
fashion centers.
b. The fashion
acceptance and trends in export markets.
The questions
to be asked when analyzing the fashion are:
a. How has the
fashion changed in this segment?
b. How does it
affect the footwear and its components and materials?
c. Where may
these trends lead? Will they be long-Iasting?
d. In which
stage of acceptance will the trends reach the market in various countries?
The main milestones used to analyze fashion are:
a. Market surveys
b. Fashion
forecasts
c. Pre-design
d. Shoe
engineering
e. Pathfinders
f. Tooling,
etc.
4. Country Details (Denmark)
Denmark is a Scandinavian
country in the European Union. The southernmost of the Nordic countries, it is southwest of Sweden and
south of Norway, and
bordered to the south by Germany. The Kingdom
of Denmark is a sovereign state
that comprises Denmark proper and two autonomous constituent
countries in the North Atlantic Ocean: the Faroe Islands and Greenland.
Denmark has an area of 42,924 square kilometers (16,573 sq mi), and a population of 5,707,251 in
January 2016. The country consists of a peninsula, Jutland, and
an archipelago of 443 named
islands, of which around
70 are inhabited. The islands are characterized by flat, arable land
and sandy coasts, low elevation and a temperate
climate.
Denmark has four distinct seasons of spring, summer, autumn and winter.
The spring months of April and May are mild and the summer months of June, July
and August are the hottest. Autumn runs from September to November and tends to
be rainy and cloudy. The winter months of December to March are normally cold,
with frost and snow. The climate in Denmark is pleasant in the summertime (May
- August). Typical daytime temperatures in the midsummer are a little more than
20 degrees C. May is a specially charming month, as the spring is at its
height. September can often be very rainy.
The winter in Denmark can be quite cold. Temperature falls sometimes until 15 - 30°C below zero. Then the country is ruled by snow, ice and icy winds. Even in April it is still possible to have a snowstorm. In the wintertime the sun rises only little above the horizon and for months (roughly October - March) the days are dark and short.
The Danish weather can go from freezing to
broiling and then back again within a few hours, so layers are your best bet.
Bring lots of sweaters and at least one waterproof jacket. Most Danes own a
whole set of "rain clothes," a sort of waterproof jogging outfit. For
winter, you'll need warm scarves and a warm coat - a short one is more
practical, since many people get around on their bikes all winter long. (Fur is
entirely acceptable in Denmark).
Even for summer, plan on bringing a few
sweaters and a solid jacket - leather is ideal. Danish summers are often rainy
and cold.
5. Preference of Denmark people about footwear
The Danes on the other
hand, have a culture of practical, comfort shoes. ECCO, Dansk and Born are
Danish companies that produce and ‘market’ the Danish shoe to consumers
world-wide. Kind of bright and definitely rubber soled, these reasonably priced
clog type shoes are ubiquitous here.
This culturally
makes a lot of sense since much like in the pioneer days, Danish women walk and
bike everywhere and their shoes need to endure wind, rain, snow as well as mud
paths and the dreaded cobblestone paths.
Trends: Spring Summer 2016
a. NATURAL IMPERFECTION
Recycling and slow
living is in. The quest for inner peace and tranquillity is reflected in colors
and materials. We embrace imperfection and natural beauty. We value the quality
of un-retouched reality and authenticity. We find luxury i in being humble and honest. We want rustic designs
crafted with a sense for unique detailing.
b. BOHEMIAN SARTORIALIST
The
theme of Nomadism continues in 2016 as an updated, luxury edition inspired by
the world travelling bohemian’s encounter with the new arising fashion and art
scene across Africa and the colorful Arabian culture. We want highly
expressive, electric patterns, varied textures and rich structures. We are
attracted to art-full collages
and unexpected compositions.
c. BIOMIMICRY
The future belongs
to Mother Nature. So, they apply technology inspired by the nature of plants,
insects, fish and animals into their designs. Creating new materials, new color
schemes and new innovative structures.
SEASONAL
LOOK & FEEL-
TRANQUIL- Calm, cool colors mixing with natural imperfection. Mindful and rustic. Recycling
authentic qualities. Attention to unique detailing.

EXPRESSIVE
Art-full and
graphic expressions. Collages with unexpected elements. Patterns and prints in
an eclectic mix of street styles and cultures.

FUTURISTIC-
Transforming
nature’s tech into innovative designs. Mimicking plants, insects and animals.
Monochrome colors. Effect full contrasts.

The color palate
of the season range from monochromatic tones to a natural theme consisting of
florals, pastels and earthy tones as well as iridescent silver and vibrant hues
of orange, plum, blue and green.
In addition to casual and formal shoe styles, ECCO has
expanded on their highly successful active lifestyle range – Intrinsic 2, which
offers sleek designs of sneakers in various colors for both men and women
crafted in knitted textile and leather. For women, the Intrinsic range (Karma)
also includes a selection of ballerina flats that are lightweight and durable.
COOL SNEAKERS STYLE COLLECTION-
Sneakers are big news this
season, and these long-lace leather trainers with a contrasting sole take all
the essential design elements and combine them into one quality style. The ECCO
Comfort Fiber System ensures that your feet stay cool and fresh, and the
anatomically accurate design maximizes all-day comfort.



SIZE DISCRIPTION (FEMALE)
a. EU-35,36,37,38,39,40,41,42,43
b. UK-2.5,3,3.5,4,4.5,5,5.5,6,6.5,7,7.5,8,8.5,9
c. US-4,4.5,5,5.5,6,6.5,7,7.5,8,8.5,9,9.5,10,10.5,11,11.5,12,12.5
d. MM-218,230,237,243,250,257,263,270,277
SIZE DISCRIPTION (MALE)
a. EU-39,40,41,42,43,44,45,46,47
b. UK-6,6.5,7,7.5,8,8.5,9,9.5,10,10.5,11,11.5,12,12.5
c. US-8,8.5,9,9.5,10,10.5,11,11.5,12,12.5,13,13.5
d. MM-250,257,263,270,277,283,290,297,303
7. The task of a shoe designer
1. Production of
medium size patterns
2. Fitting trials
3. Modifications
4. Grading
trials (large/small)
5. Grading of
full range
6. Pre costing
7. Preparation of specifications
8. Tooling
9. Production
of sales samples
10. Large scale
factory trials
9.
Conclusion
The world is comprised
of many countries and aggressive markets. Thus entry decisions are the calculated
decisions that global companies make most commonly. Since the type of entry
strategy can be clearly related to later market success, these decisions need
to be based on careful analysis. Although most companies have preferences as to
which entry strategy they would pursue, increasingly forms will be adopting a
flexible approach. Establishing a sales subsidiary may be the best alternative
for entering some countries like Denmark. All our domestic footwear business
organizations will be forced to learn to manage with a variety of entry
strategies.
References
1. Mercer, David
(1996), “Marketing”, Blackwell Publishers Ltd.
2. Rathor, B S, Jani,
BM and Rathor, JS (2001), “International Marketing”, Himalya Publishing House
3. Sontakki, C N
(2009), “Marketing Management”, Kalyani Publishers.
4. Research reports
& articles of “Journal of Commerce & Trade”.
5. Research articles
& reports by UNIDO
Internet
links
2. mybusiness.co.uk
3.
marketingteacher.com
4. wikipedia.org
5.
themanagementor.com
6. thewalkingcompany.com
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